All bikes purchased from TRI UK will be fully built and will have gone through a workshop Pre Delivery Set Up and Inspection. When your new bike arrives with you it will need the handle bars straightening, the pedal putting on ( if your model comes with pedals) and your saddle height setting up.
Straighten handlebars: Please refer to the manufacturers instruction booklet for guidance on this. If your bike has a carbon fibre fork or stem or handlebar then please observe the manufacturers torque settings to ensure you do not overtighten these components.
Putting pedals on: Your pedals will be labelled on the axles with a L or R. Please use the correct pedal on the correct side of your bike. You will need to put your pedals on initially just with your fingers. Just put the pedals on finger tight at first. You will be able to screw the pedals 98% with your fingers only. If you are having to force the thread and it is feel too tight to screw on with just your fingers then the need to stop as you may well have the axle threads cross threaded. Only use a spanner for the final tightening of the pedals. This will ensure that you do not cross thread the pedals and strip the axle threads.
Setting saddle height: This is a simple task depending on whether your bike has a quick release level or an allen key bolt. During the first few times of riding your bike you will quite possibly lower and raise your saddle as you get used to your bike and until you find that perfect height for yourself. If your bike has a carbon fibre seat post and/or a carbon fibre frame then please observe the manufacturers torque settings to ensure you do not overtighten these components.
If you are new to riding this style/level of bike, please take a few minutes to read the following information.
We hope you find it useful and we hope that it will ensure the correct use of the bike’s moving parts.
Tip One: Your bike is a mechanical item, with lots of moving parts. Your bike has been fully checked over and set up by a cycle technician so it is ready for you to ride. However, your bike will need continuous attention to ensure it remains running smoothly. As your components stretch, move slightly and ‘bed in’ your bike will need to be re-checked over by a cycle technician. This is all very normal and all to be expected. It does not mean there is anything wrong with your bike. It does not mean that your bike is broken. Please ensure you take your bike to a cycle technician once these movements start so that no damage occurs to your bike ans its components.
Tip Two: Be careful when leaning your bike up against a wall or when putting your bike in the back of the car etc. Do not lie your bike with the rear mech/chain set underneath/face down/next to the wall/ The rear mech needs to remain in alignment in order to continue to work smoothly. Even the relatively light weight of the bike can/will knock the rear mech out of alignment – this can then cause the rear mech to break off and/or go onto your rear wheel. Therefore be very aware of any knocks or incidents that may cause this rear mech area to move and become out of line. It will be perfectly in line, fully set up and tested prior to leaving our workshop.
Tip Three: When riding your bike try to pedal at a brisk pace. It is better to pedal at a brisk pace, using the easier-to-pedal gears, than to strain the components (and your legs!) by using the harder-to pedal gears and pedalling more slowly. Grinding along in a high gear is not going to do your cycle components any good at all. This technique will increase your stamina over a longer ride and will enable you to accelerate more quickly if you need to set-off quickly – from a junction for example. This brisk pace on the pedals will also facilitate you changing up and down your gears.
Tip Four: This is a hugely important tip! Lighten the pressure on the pedals when you shift gear. Keep the pedals turning, but don’t be grinding down on them while you shift. Lightening the pressure on the pedals facilitates a smooth gear change, reduces any grinding noises when you shift and lengthens the life of your rear mech, cassette, chain and chain rings.
Tip Five: This tip deals with the chain line. Try to keep your chain as straight and ‘in line’ as possible. Chains do not like being at extreme angles. It causes excess strain on the components and causes the components to grind, rub and wear excessively. With the number of gear combinations available on your bike, you will be able to find the perfect gear without expecting the chain to cope with being put under ‘extreme angle’ pressure.
Tip Six: Remember to shift back to a low gear before you stop, so that you will be in an easy gear for starting off again. Just as if you are in your car! You cannot expect your components to survive all XX stone of you pushing hard down on the pedals from a red traffic light if you are still in a high gear. You would not expect your car to set off in 4th gear – please do not expect your bike to!
Tip Seven: It will be pretty obvious when you need to change gears. As stated in the above points, you need to be in the correct gear so that you are benefitting from the components – not putting unnecessary strain on them and expecting them to perform under unnecessary pressure. As per your car – if you drove at 70mph in 2nd gear your gear box would not last long. The same applies to your bike components.
Tip Eight: Finally....never pedal backwards on a bike with a rear derailleur...always pedal forwards.
